Leto v znamení Tatranských klasík

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Po dlhej zime naše prvé tohtoročné letné tatranské lezenie smerovalo 8. júna do cesty Štáflovka na Voliu vežu. Nie až tak technicky náročná, ale zato esteticky krásna klasika. Cesta vedie pevnou skalou, borhákmi osadenými štandmi a s nádhernými výhľadmi do dolín a na úpätia končiarov ešte pokrytých snehom.

Ako ďalšiu cestu sme si vybrali Cesta cez knihu na Žeruchách, tentokrát Filip nemohol, a tak mi parťáka robil Milan, pre ktorého to bola jeho prvá cesta Tatrách. Prvé dĺžky ma nejako nezaujali, keďže si na ne okrem jedného veľkého voľného šutru ani veľmi nespomínam, zato ´´kniha´´ to vynahradila pekným lezením. Po jej prekonaní pokračujeme III-kovým terénom na vrchol Východnej Žeruchovej veže, keďže sme tam ešte neboli a potom už len dole k batohom cez žlab s dvoma zlaňákmi.

29. júla sme zavítali do Cesty k slnku na Malý Ľadový štít. Spočiatku nám robili starosti hmla a mraky, ale nakoniec sa to všetko umúdrilo a my sme sa vybrali za slnkom. Charakteristické pre túto cestu je veľmi pekné lezenie v záverečných platniach. Táto lezecká cesta vedie v južnej stene výrazným pilierom a so štandmi odistená borhákmi.

Cesta cez výlom, Velická stena– Volá mi Peťo Urbanský, sú traja a zišiel by sa im niekto ďalší nech môžeme liezť ako 2 dvojky. Neváham a hneď súhlasím. Ráno sa dosť zdržíme, a tak prichádzame na Sliezsky neskoro, mraky taktiež sadli a stenu takmer nevidno. Vyslovuje sa myšlienka vykašľať sa dnes na to. Ideme sa ale pozrieť pod nástup, kde uvidíme čo a ako. Peťovmu parťákovi je zle, a tak sa rozhodnú neliezť, ja si však vravím, keď som už tu, tak prečo to neskúsiť, aspoň zopár dĺžok… Mne pridelený parťák, Ľuboš, s ktorým som sa zoznámil predchvíľou to taktiež chce skúsiť, a tak sa púšťame do hmly. Podarí sa mi nezablúdiť ( zablúdili sme až pri zostupu, kde sme si nevšimli odbočuje mega široký chodník, a tak šliapeme znovu naspäť do kopca, aby sme nemali málo) , aj čas máme dobrý, aj kľúčové miesto prekonávame bez problémov, voláme Peťovi že sme v pohode a zostupujeme.

Ošarpance, Puškášova cesta. Dlho som pozeral na krásne vyzerajúce platne Ošarpancov, kým som sa konečne cítil na pokus o ich prelez. Predsa len v tejto ceste už treba liezť trochu viac, no v ceste sa dá parádne založiť, a taktiež borhák v kľúčovom mieste pomôže na morále. Miestami som musel trochu zabojovať, najmä odolať nutkaniu chytiť expres, ale nakoniec úspešne. Z rampy zlaňujeme do snehového poľa. Nezobrali sme si so sebou topánky (veď načo), takže si to v lezkách po snehu (neodporúčam ), v nie práve najteplejšom období, valíme k ruksakom. Milan konštatuje, že lezečky na snehu nedržia najlepšie… Ťahá ma to ešte do Plška, ale myšlienka na zmrznuté prsty v mokrých lezečkách ( ďalšia dobrá lezecká výhovorka čo?) nás od toho odrádza, a tak sa poberáme dole, že aspoň cesnačku na Popradskom stihneme, samozrejme nestihli sme. Každopádne jedna z naj ciest, akú som išiel. PS: išiel som toho, ale dosť málo.

Po perióde zlého počasia prišlo babie leto a Ľubovni akosi ožívajú lezci na čele s naším predsedom, a tak sú u mňa skalky takmer na dennom poriadnu. Sneh sa v Tatrách už trochu potopil, a tak ma to opäť ťahá navštíviť nejaký ten kopček. Parťáka som zohnal Ľuboša, ktorý si kvôli tomu berie voľno v práci ( dikes ). Vybrali sme sa na Motyku, na Širokú vežu. Nejako na ťažko som sa zbalil, skoro vstával na vlak a nástup je poriadne dlhý, neviem sa dočkať, kedy konečne zložím batoh začnem liezť. Nejako sa slimačím tempom doplazím pod stenu a začíname liezť. Prvá dĺžka vedie po ´´sväteničkách´´, sem tam trochu vody a poriadne dlhý odlez, no v ľahkom. Slnko pečie, skala krásne nahriata a my si v krátkych tričkách užívame dĺžku za dĺžkou pohodového lezenia v super pevnej skale. Sem tam niečo mokré zo snehového poľa nad nami, dolez na vrchol už v poriadne mokrom, no to nám už pocity z peknej cesty nepokazí. Užívame si ešte krásne počasie na vrchole a poď ho na pivo.

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K motyke neodmysliteľne patrí Lopata. Vynikajúce počasie sprevádzané výrazným oteplením nám dovolili vystúpiť cestou Lopata na Ostrý štít ešte 20. októbra. V podstate šlo o poslednú možnosť, ako si ešte zaliezť leto v Tatrách v tomto roku a my sme to patrične využili. Cesta nevedie až tak pevnou skalou, ale zato zaujímavým platňovým lezením. Vrchol Ostrého štítu však poskytuje nádherné výhľady a azda patrí medzi tie najkrajšie v Tatrách.

Okrem týchto tatranských výstupov sme priebežne skalkárčili vo všetkých lezeckých oblastiach v blízkom okolí: Dreveník, Vernár, Turniská, Tomašovský výhľad, Lučivná, ale aj na domácom Vabci.

Ta už sa len nejako pripraviť na zimu. Hore zdar!

 

Filip a Kamil

 

 

 

3 Responses

  1. zavaky

    Super Kamil. Dlhsie som nebol na vabci takze o to krajsi navrat. Nech sa dari a je chut na dalsie horske tatranske lezenie.

  2. Predseda

    Krasa, radost citat a pozerat, som rad ze je tu ďalšia tatranska generacia ;). Zdruff