Silvestrovské polezeníčko

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Nápad stráviť posledné dni v roku zliezaním nejakých ľahších ciest vo Vysokých Tatrách sa zrodil hneď po tom, ako sme nabrali istotu, že nás v tom podporia podmienky i počasie. Z pôvodného zámeru stráviť v Tatrách dva dni s nocou na Popradskom plese však zišlo, keď nás ráno prebrala smska od Šakyho: „ja mám teplotu a strašne kašlem L“ V ten deň sme ostali doma, a možno to tak aj bolo lepšie, pretože sme aspoň boli ušetrení nepríjemného pohľadu na neustále vracajúci sa vrtuľník. V ten deň zomreli v Tatrách štyria ľudia. Tieto informácie vytvárali zmiešané pocity. Pokúsili sme sa ich prekonať, overiť si podmienky, preskúmať navrhovanú trasu a z pôvodnej štvorice sme sa do Tatier 31. decembra vybrali aspoň v dvojici, Filip a Kamil.

Ako trasu sme si zvolili tzv. Poľskú cestu v SV stene Rysov (cesta č. 2). Inšpiráciou nám bolo video Ivana Žilu z tejto cesty a jeho komentár, že „podmienky sú znamenité“. Ide o lezenie v žľabe po firnovom snehu s prekonávaním štyroch ľadových prahov vysokých 15, 8, 6,45 metrov.Obťažnosť v zime je WI 3/3+, 65-70 st.. V predvečer cesty sme si obaja boli dobre vedomí dlhého nástupu, ktorý nás čaká, no napriek tomu sme si povedali, že to skúsime. Museli sme nie len vystúpiť do sedla Váhy, ale zísť dole do Ťažkej doliny a pomaly začať stúpať žľabom hore. Hneď na začiatku nás čakal prvý ľadový prah, zaštandovali sme a začali pomaly liezť žľabom hore. Musíme povedať, že ľad bol celkom kvalitný a sneh podobne tvrdý. Takže celkovo sme sa v takej výške dočkali skvelých podmienok. Občas nám však vrásku na tvári robili starosti s dobrým odistením práve v priebehu dlhých firnových úsekov. Ešteže sme si nedávno nakúpili tie skobky. Skutočne sa osvedčili, lebo kde-tu sa objavila malá špárka na zatĺčenie. A držali pevne tak, že jednu sme ponechali na štande za 45 metrovým ľadovým prahom. Cesta to však nebola krátka. Odhadom sme ťahali 8-10 dĺžok 50 metrového lana. Je potrebné povedať, že takmer všetky, okrem jednej, ťahal Kamil (aspoň sme sa pravidelne v tej zime hýbali J ). Tú jedinú v závere žľabu bol na čele Filip. Boli to už chvíle, kedy sme liezli s čelovkami a súčasne. V tých miestach je žľab pomerne široký a žiadna dobrá skala nablízku. Po dolezení k malému prahu sme pre istotu zaštandovali a Kamil čoskoro doliezol posledné metre. Boli sme radi, že sme na vrchole, pretože už nastala skutočná tma. V podstate celé naše lezenie boli tak trochu preteky s časom. Musíme priznať, že nás zdržal dlhý nástup. Výšku slnka sme mohli určovať len z jeho odrazu na protiľahlých končiaroch. Kým boli osvetlené, vedeli sme, že ešte je čas. K Chate pod Rysmi sme už schádzali po tme. Tu sme sa počas Silvestrovskej zábavy krátko občerstvili a začali schádzať dole do doliny. Pri aute sme sa nezdržiavali a snažili sa ešte stihnúť Silvestrovské oslavy. Doma sme sa však zmohli tak na horúcu vaňu a príjemný spánok po polnočnom ohňostroji.

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Celkovo hodnotíme cestu ako veľmi príjemnú, fajn polezeníčko. Možno je nám trochu ľúto, že nás dlhý nástup trochu fyzicky i časovo vyčerpal, a nemohli sme si žľab vychutnať na plnej čiare. Nám to však veľmi nevadí, pretože sme radi niečo vyliezli v zimných Tatrách a hlavne sa vrátili domov v poriadku. 

Kamil a Filip

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